Having been to #meateasy, sampled the delights of the Meat Wagon and even dropped by the Peckham Rye pub, some might say I’ve had my fair share of their burgers over the last year or so. But, based on the two MEAT Liquor burgers I’ve had already, not to mention some heart-breakingly tasty Mac and Cheese, I’d be inclined to disagree.
However, we can all agree that MEAT Liquor is going to make a good burger or two. What I’ve recently had the delight of realising twice in about as many drunken evenings is the revelation that you can now drop by for one just about any time after you’ve been out boozing.
It requires a process that’s a hyrbid of following the star to Bethlehem and the journey to another world in The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe. Need more details? Let me explain.
*Editor’s note: Drunken photos may lack the usual refined detail – for full experience, have a few beers before reading.*
Living in Clapham often feels like a bit of a waste of time in culinary terms. Aside from Trinity, Four O Nine and Breads Etcetera, you’re most likely to find dirty takeaways and high street chains like Strada.
What makes this doubly apparent is the high calibre of exciting little offerings springing up just around the corner in Brixton. With just a short stroll around Brixton Village and the market, you can barely turn around without bumping into Franco Manca’s tasty pizza, or Federation Coffee’s snazzy beans.
Honest Burgers dropped onto my radar when it entered YoungandFoodish’s top ten burgers in London last week and you only need a quick glance at that list to realise it’s in some heavyweight company. But how does an £8 bring-your-own-booze Brixton burger place hold up to the likes of Hawksmoor, Bar Boulud and Byron?
The Meatwagon is not a vehicle, it is a state of mind. It’s not where you are, it’s the chili on the cheese on the chips by the burger under the more cheese and bacon. Of your life.
Which is just as well really. If you haven’t heard the story before, after the theft of the official MeatWagon, it’s father ,Yanni, set up shop above New Cross Tavern to raise funds for another.
So after a couple of visits earlier this year, should you be eagerly anticipating the return of this under-supplied commodity?
The current burger renaissance has brought with it a growing, near mystical focus on mythology. By that, I mean how provenance, design and background combine to deepen and differentiate the experience of each creation.
While all food has this to some extent – think Hereford rump steak hung for 28 days – it’s more granular with burgers. It’s about shifting proportions of different cuts of meat, thickness of grain, seasoning, condiments and accompaniments. Between those two brackets of bun, there’s a battlefield of countless permutations.
It’s easy to get a bit carried away with all this. However, one thing I do know: every time someone discusses the chuck to rib ratio and the knock-on effects for total fat content, my mouth has a nice time while brain patiently tries to absorb the info.
It turns out that this attention to detail is really mostly a manifestation of the love the chef has put into the dish. Such is the case with the most recent BurgerMonday event, BURGERMAT.